Kimmie

Hoi An

After an early start, we hopped onto our very first sleeper bus to Phong Nha, which was quite the experience. The journey turned out to be surprisingly relaxing: we napped, read, watched movies, and occasionally gazed out the window at the passing landscapes. At one point, the bus drivers took a particular liking to my sister, so she ended up sitting with them for a while and took selfies with them, which was a funny moment.

At some point, we stopped for what we thought was our arrival, but it turned out to be a random local lunch stop. We decided to embrace it and grab some food. As soon as we sat down, we were asked where we were from and received plenty of curious (and very friendly) stares. Moments like these made us feel both out of place and warmly welcomed.

Phong Nha

We eventually arrived at Central Backpackers Hostel, where we met two Dutch girls with whom we instantly connected. That evening, we grabbed drinks with an Austrian girl who shared stories about her life as an elementary school teacher.

The next day, we explored the famous Phong Nha caves. Located in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, renowned for its spectacular cave systems and is even home to Hang Son Doong, which is the largest cave in the world. The cave itself was enormous, almost impossible to fully comprehend. Walking through it, we couldn’t help but imagine what it must have been like during the war. The cool air inside was a welcome relief from the 30-degree heat outside. After the cave tour, we headed to a nearby water park where we joined in some fun (and slightly chaotic) water activities. One tip: don’t do this tour in slippers. I learned that the hard way. Still, it was a great mix of nature, history, and fun.

Tam Coc – a slower place

After just one day, it was time to move on to Tam Coc. This small village had a completely different vibe: Quiet, walkable, and peaceful. Communication with locals was a bit more challenging here, as English wasn’t widely spoken, but everyone we met was incredibly kind. At one point, an older woman tried to tell us something, but despite our best efforts, we couldn’t figure it out. We shared a laugh and moved on, another reminder that not all connections need words.

One thing we noticed throughout our trip was how different everyday life in Vietnam is compared to the Netherlands. Back home, everything feels very structured—traffic follows clear rules, people stick to schedules, and communication is usually direct. In Vietnam, life felt much more fluid and spontaneous.

Traffic, for example, looks chaotic at first (and honestly, it is), but somehow it works. Instead of strict rules, people rely more on awareness and flow. Crossing the street became an adventure in itself—rather than waiting for a gap, you just slowly walk and trust that scooters will move around you.

The next day, we joined a full-day tour through Ninh Binh. Our first stop was Bai Dinh Temple, an impressive complex filled with countless Buddha statues. Our guide was a character: He could say a few words in nearly every language represented in our group and shared stories about Vietnamese history along the way. It was also the hottest day of our trip: 44 degrees. While we were melting, our guide (like many locals) was fully covered in sun-protective clothing to avoid tanning. This contrast really highlighted cultural differences in beauty standards and daily habits.

Next, we took a boat tour through Trang An, which was absolutely stunning. The landscapes felt almost unreal, with towering mountains and peaceful rivers. The boats themselves were small and charming, but we couldn’t help feeling a bit sorry for the women rowing them. They were incredibly strong, doing physically demanding work for hours.

Halfway through the tour, the skies suddenly opened up, and it started pouring. Luckily, we found shelter in the low-hanging caves along the river—ducking our heads as we passed through. It made the experience even more adventurous.

To finish the day, we tackled the hike up to Mua Cave. Calling it “a hike” might be generous—it was more like a stairmaster challenge in extreme heat. But once we reached the top, the view made it all worth it: endless rice fields, winding rivers, and dramatic mountain peaks. I would absolutely recommend this tour. The combination of culture, nature, and a fun guide made it one of our favorite days.

Scooter adventures (and regrets)

We had one more full day in Tam Coc and decided to rent a scooter. In hindsight… not our best idea. I was honestly pretty scared. The traffic felt chaotic, and sharing the road with large trucks on the highway didn’t help. The rental shop owner’s 2-year-old child even handed us a bottle of gasoline to take with us, which felt slightly concerning. After a short ride, we decided to turn back and spend the rest of the day relaxing by a pool instead. Much better choice!

That evening, we wandered through the city center. We visited a temple, admired boats glowing with lanterns, and explored a lively local market. At one point, a group of Vietnamese women invited us for a spontaneous photoshoot, which was both hilarious and wholesome. These small, unexpected interactions often became the highlights of our trip.

It was the perfect, relaxing end to our time in Tam Coc before heading to our next destination: Sapa. But that’s a story for the next blog…